Oct 26: And then we watched Shazam
My host family got a DVD player today as a gift. It’s my favorite question for everything: Why? Goodness, why? There’s so many other things they need besides a DVD player, but there it is, sitting in our living room. A neighbor came by to help them set it up and after several minutes, I was summoned from my room to help. After all, I’m American so I have vast amounts of technological knowledge to go along with my wads of cash, beautiful women hanging off of me, and my semi-automatic weapon right? Side note: I told them my dad used to command tanks, now they think we own one. The audio wasn’t working on their pirated DVD (4 movies on one disc! I’ve seen 25 on one, I think they’re getting ripped off.) so we played with the options for a little, but to no avail. Several Kyrgyz men stared at me while I stared at the DVD player, apparently waiting for me to become suddenly enlightened by a bolt of lightning, an epiphany concerning the DVD player’s audio malfunction. I just smiled.
The audio jack wasn’t plugged in.
Oct 27: Into the darkness
The power is out right now. To be honest, I’m surprised it doesn’t happen more often here. We ate by light of kerosene lamps, food that had been prepared seconds before the power outage. With nothing to entertain us, we were forced into conversation, entertaining me more than a DVD, song, or TV show could ever hope to. It’s amazing how little information my host family, and probably most Kyrgyz people, have about the world. They had a cow when I told them that America had around 270 million people. I thought they were going to choke on their food when I told them China had several BILLION. I left dinner once again thinking about how little they knew, or perhaps the amount of trivial facts I have stored over the years. They now know that the last time the Redskins won the Super Bowl was 1991. I think they understood me.
My LCF told me that a package for me has arrived in Tokmok, but it was too heavy for her to carry back to the village. Too heavy? I know that the local post office is notorious for opening packages, stealing items, and replacing them with useless local items so I wonder what they took and what new items they added that could cause such a weight gain: an encyclopedia, a bag of sand, horseshoes, barbells, block of concrete? Who knows? Supposedly I’ll get it soon, whenever the local tractor can go pick it up.
Oct 29: Prelude of sorts
Once again I’ve been knocked out by sickness here in Kyrgyzstan. It’s really weird because in the States I never get sick, but in less than two months I’ve been bedridden here twice. I had to run outside and puke my guts out a few times two nights ago and today a sharp pain on my right abdomen started. I tried to tough it out, but the other trainees in Kegeti basically forced me to call the doctor. He told me that he was sending a car to take me to Bishkek (nearly 2 hours away), but this was around 7PM so I quickly told him that I needed to be in Tokmok tomorrow. You see, tomorrow’s the much-aforementioned Halloween/Stachetoberfest party. The doctor came to me.
Of course, the first thing running through my hypochondriactic mind was “appendicitis” as usual. Surprisingly enough, most of the symptoms listed in our medical book pointed to this and I was pretty nervous, but the doctor assured me that all I had was an inflamed colon. Doesn’t that sound sexy? He asked me how many cups of tea I drank per day and I told him around 25, give or take a few. The doctor then reminded me that the water sucks here and I should only drink tea made of distilled water. Supposedly the water here is infested with all sorts of bugs, bacterium, parasites, extinct dinosaurs, etc. Anyway, a handful of different colored pills later, the doctor was on his way back to Bishkek and I was told to call again if the problem persisted.
But I made a really cool jack-o-lantern and costume for tomorrow, so it was all good.
Oct 30: Back to the Bakai Ata
Calling my family and friends has become more fun for me than using the internet. It’s weird because I kind of took my cell phone for granted in the States because of the ease with which it connected me to others. It was good to talk to all of you today.
The Halloween/Stachetoberfest party was held at the same place we met our host families: the café Bakai Ata. Actually things were set up from the beginning to fail miserably beginning with news from some trainees that some villages didn’t want to come. Their reasons ranged from understandable: entry fee (60 som is like $1.25, we couldn’t exactly rent the place for free), to ridiculous: our safety and security coordinator showing up while we were drinking. Ok kids, hide the beer! I laughed when I heard that reason because the SSC hadn’t even been invited and, surprise!, he didn’t come. Either way, I wish the others had come, but it was a freaking blast anyway. Lots of hilarious costumes, games, food, I had way too much fun. I punched a really cute trainee in the face by accident too. Oh man, I still have the smooth moves. How could I top such a day?
I went home and shaved my moustache.
Oct 31: The Kyrgyz party
Today was our first LPI test and it went as well as I expected, but more importantly, I came home to about 30 people hanging out in my house (remember, we live on a compound so there’s a “their house” and a “my house”). Did I have much of a choice? I went in and ate and drank with them for a few hours.
Through the course of the evening, I found out that the party was for an end of Ramadan kind of thing. I think. Either way, lots of old people, lots of little kids, lots of mutton, lots of bread, lots of Kyrgyz words I didn’t understand. Most of the conversation was obviously directed at the single American as given by the constant “volunteer” and “America” words tossed around. Near the end, we played a game where the oldest guy held up a sheep’s leg bone and gave prophecies of sorts to certain people in the room. He kept repeating one word to me over and over while pointing the bone at me. I finally grabbed a dictionary and the oldie pointed to his word of choice: ruler. That thing you see on the western horizon is my head, expanding by the second. Thanks old balls.
One thing I’ve learned here is that the party is never over. The old folks and our fortune teller left and half an hour later, my host mom banged on my door, telling me to come eat again. Now it was her extended family here for a post-celebration-celebration. This party was less eating, more drinking, but just as fun. I tossed a Dora the Explorer DVD on the laptop for the kids and had a few drinks with the dudes. Fun times, fun times. Dora and industrial-strength vodka with peppers in it. Only in Kyrgyzstan.
Huge bonus: a box from my parents came today and everything was intact and accounted for. They insured the package so I think it definitely went a long way in securing its safety here. That’s a protip for you parents of K13 kids out there. Or it could be that the box was basically bulletproof from the awesome packing job my folks did. I needed to use the huge blade on my Swiss Army knife to dent the thing.
I love you guys.
Nov 02: Back to the Big O
The packet reads:
“Dear Sean,
Congratulations on being assigned to the Bektemirov School in Kurshab village, Ozgon Rayon...”
And so I’m heading back to Osh. After weeks of waiting and uncertainty over where I’d eventually be placed, it’s certainly a relief to get my first choice, but I’m also exhausted now. As they handed out the packets with our assignments, people tittered about and nervously waited their turn to hear the name of their home for the next two years. Today was definitely the biggest day for the K13 group so far and the drain was incredible, many people didn’t know what to say when they tore open the envelopes. Some burst into chatter, some yelped, some cried. I just zoned out.
Like I said before, I’ve been thinking a lot about site placement so finally having that hurdle passed is a weird feeling. When we all had received our packets, we were told to stand on a large map of Kyrgyzstan where we were to be placed. It was weird seeing who was nearby and who was far off, people you might not see except for a handful of times a year. Moreso than going to the south, I was elated by the other K13s who were going to the south with me. Betsy H., Rachel, Joanie, along with a couple other good folks are headed down south so we should have an awesome time the next two years. It’s that post-excitement rush deadzone here right now though. I thought so much about wherewherewhere and now that I know, I’m happy, but just kind of dazed I guess. In part it might be because I found out that Greg and Jen Ishmael are headed to Naryn and won’t be nearby me anymore. It’s a shame because I’ve had so much fun with them lately and was looking forward to more good times. I guess I can go visit them in the mountains and make a snowman or something.
Aside from the wild site placement announcements, I got another package from my awesome parents. Thanks guys. Once again I proved myself to have a little luck running in my blood as nobody from the post office tore into my package to pillage my magazines, snacks, and toiletries though numerous other trainees suffered such fates. Must be my Irish name. We even got our official Peace Corps volunteer ID cards today. They are encased in leather billfolds that you can flip out and scream “FBI! Hands in the air!”
...or “Peace Corps! Boomshakalaka!”
Nov 03: Watching Lost
Today was our first day with our new LCF: Aichuruk. It’s kind of hard to Romanize some of the Kyrgyz names, so hopefully my spelling doesn’t butcher the pronunciation too much. Yesterday when we received our site placements, she shrieked and shook my hand when I received Kurshab because it’s her hometown. Of course, yesterday I had no idea who she was so I just kind of wagged my arm, pursed my lips, raised an eyebrow, and shuffled away.
I plan on getting a cell phone next week before heading down to Osh for my permanent site visit. Having a cell phone will be essential for keeping in touch with other volunteers around the country, but it will be best used by having my folks call me from the States. It doesn’t cost any money to receive calls, so as long as people foot the bill for phone cards back home, they can call as often as they want. There were some scheduling conflicts in Kegeti over trips to the internet café, bank, bazaar, and cell phone store, but our new LCF immediately distinguished herself as different from my previous LCF by taking charge and laying out the plans. I liked her right away for that. As our LCF, she should be our leader and I’m glad that she is quick to come up with gameplans instead of dropping the ball and umm-ing and uhh-ing the entire time.
We started watching Lost today (thanks Mom, Dad!). The show was highly recommended by one of my old roommates, Mr. Kyle Richard Fowler, and it’s pretty awesome so far. Today was a holiday, end of Ramadan, so we visited everyone’s homes for tea and snacks before settling in at my house for a quick couple episodes. It’s got the big explosions, quirky characters, and weird storyline to keep everyone entertained, but it also has man-eating monsters too. Monsters, mutated animals, aliens, or dinosaurs?
I hope they are dinosaurs.